Herbs for Pets

February 10th, 2012

Try these natural pet remedies to keep your pet healthy and happy all year.

Many of the most powerful healing herbs are easy to grow in almost every part of the country, and in the space of a small backyard you can grow nearly all of the herbs your pet needs to stay healthy. Here is a list of good pet medicine herbs to grow. It’s important to use organic gardening techniques—avoid using pesticides and herbicides. Also, select only the herbs that are easy to grow in your area. Look around your neighborhood for herbs growing wild and those flourishing in local gardens to  get ideas about what to plant.
 
 
 
 The Best Herbs for Pets

Echinacea (Echinacea spp.) is a beautiful, stately plant that no garden should be without. In most parts of the United States, it’s easy to grow from seeds or root divisions. In my practice, I used echinacea to support and enhance the immune system. While most sources say echinacea’s roots contain the most potent medicine, I had good success using aerial parts (leaves and flowers), mixed with some root when I wanted a more potent dosage.

Aloe (Aloe vera) is another plant I think every garden should have, even though you will most likely need to bring it indoors during the winter. There is simply no better topical healing agent than fresh aloe juice for cuts, abrasions and especially burns. To use, just break off a leaf and squeeze the juice on the affected area of the skin.

Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca) looks and acts like an invasive weed—it’s very easy to grow, but you’ll need to keep it under control. Motherwort is a powerful medicinal for heart conditions, especially those associated with anxiety and tension. I use either the fresh or dried aerial parts.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) and valerian (Valeriana officinalis) are relaxing and sedating to all critters, but cats are especially susceptible to their effects. (For cats, the calming and sedative actions come after the intense initial euphoria.) These plants are easy to grow, unless your neighborhood happens to have one or two voracious plant-eating cats roaming the area. In that case, you may either position chicken wire screens over the plants for protection or grow these herbs indoors in pots to keep them safe.

Oat (Avena sativa) is one of my favorite nervous system tonics. It’s palatable for almost all animals, it’s beneficial to the nervous system and it’s easy to grow. When we plant oats, we harvest the still-green oat heads (when the seeds are “milky”) for herbal use, and then we till the rest of the plant under as mulch.

Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) is another beautiful, easy-to-grow addition to any garden. The herb can help your pet relax, and also can help treat inflammation and gastric upset. Harvest the aerial parts and use them as a tea for your pet, or chop up the flowers and sprinkle over your pet’s food.
Taken from The Herb Companion Feb/March 2012,  Article by Randy Kidd, D.V.M. 2000
See complete article at: http://bit.ly/zu6Kew

Audubon’s 3rd Annual Photo Awards

January 5th, 2012

One of my favorite magazines is Audubon. The January-February 2012 issue has ‘hit the stands’ and it includes the Annual Photography Awards. Audubon Magazine has again collaborated with Nature’s Best Photography to offer photographers the chance to submit photos in the professional, amateur, and youth divisions. This year’s judges were Kevin Fisher, Audubon’s design director; Lila Garnett, Audubon’s photo editor; and Steve Freligh, publisher and editor-in-chief of Nature’s Best Photography.

Here are some of the top winners… 

Grand Prize Winner/Species: red-shouldered hawk, by Carol Graham Fryer

 

Amateur Birds Winner/Species: great gray owl, by Jim Brown

 

 Amateur Birds and Their Habitat Winner/Species: common loon, by Richard Simonsen

 

Professional Birds and Their Habitat Winner/Species: northern pygmy-owl, by Paul Bannick 

 

Youth Birds Winner/Species: house sparrow, by Timothy Brooks

 

Youth Birds and Their Habitat Winner/Species: greylag geese, by Cedar Byrum

View the full article and more at audubonmagazine.org

Botanic Notables: The Saffron Crocus

December 21st, 2011

Crocus sativus blossom with crimson stigmas

It has perfumed the palaces of ancient Crete, colored the robes of Tibetan monks, and softened the baths of Alexander the Great. It’s the essence of legends, yet its own story is fairly simple: saffron is nothing more than the dried stigmas of a crocus flower. And it’s not exclusive to exotic Persian soils—there’s a good chance that it would flourish in your garden.

Harvesting saffron is tedious and laborious, hence a price that rivals gold. Each saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) yields three bright red stigmas, which are hand removed in a fleeting autumn harvest—flowers must be picked the day they bloom, then quickly dissected. 

The extracted stigmas—once plucked, these strands are called saffron threads—are spread to dry, weighed and packaged. Formerly the reproductive organ of a small crocus, the saffron threads are now sold as a precious commodity. 

A Kashmiri farmer in a saffron field in Pampore, India. Photo credit: hindustanitimes.com

One pound of saffron costs $1,000, and requires the stigmas from almost 75,000 flowers. Fortunately, it’s potent—a pound of saffron will flavor a lot of paella.

When at the market, beware prices that seem too good to be true. Other ingredients, like safflower or crocus styles, are sometimes added to the pure saffron stigmas. This isn’t new—saffron has been diluted for as long as it has been coveted; in the Middle Ages, unscrupulous saffron merchants were even burned alive. 

Today, saffron is cultivated primarily in east Asia and parts of the Mediterranean (Iran produces 90% of the world’s saffron, and the EU has made efforts to convince Afghan farmers to replace opium crops with Crocus sativus). But, according to growers, the saffron crocus is fairly adaptable—it will bloom in many climates with wet springs and hot dry summers, including Britain and the United States

    Saffron (the dried red stigmas of Crocus sativus) can be crushed or used as threads. Photo credit: Flickr user Food & Farsi.

 

Article by Anna Laurent from Garden Design on-line, Dec 16, 2001  http://www.gardendesign.com

Leaf Mold

November 10th, 2011

Improve the structure and water-holding capacity of soil with leaf mold.

Instead of carting leaves to the curb, recycle them the way nature does, by turning them into an invaluable soil builder. Leaf mold greatly improves the structure and water-holding capacity of soil. It also creates the perfect conditions for the community of beneficial organisms that dwell in your soil, and it’s great in potting mix.

 There’s really no excuse not to make leaf mold. It’s free, easy-to-make, and readily available. If you don’t have enough leaves in your own yard, trade raking duty with your neighbors in exchange for theirs. Before you use leaves that have fallen on your neighbors’ lawns, be sure to ask them if the grass has recently been sprayed with synthetic chemicals. If so, don’t use the leaves. Grass clippings with chemical residues can get mixed in with the leaves and contaminate them, says William Brinton, Ph.D., director of the Woods End Research Laboratory, in Maine. Still, Dr. Brinton explains, chemical contamination is not a significant concern with leaf mold because its lengthy decomposition time allows for chemicals to break down as well. Do not use leaves that have been raked into the street for municipal pickup, because they may contain lots of sand, fuel, or oil residues.

  

 

Article by Willi Evans Galloway from Organic Gardening

Plant Picks

October 27th, 2011

Alternatives to Invasives

Invasive plants are so successful because they often grow and mature rapidly; spread quickly; have few known diseases or insects to provide control;  thrive in many habitats; and are difficult to control. Because of these factors, non-native invasives usually have the upper hand and take over the niche that native plants inhabit. When considering plants always try to use a native alternative that has the qualities and characteristics you desire. 

                                                                                                          Invasive: Wisteria sinensis, Chinese wisteria

 

                                                                   Alternative: Aristolochia tomentosa, Dutchman’s pipe

 from Fine Gardening, October 2011     finegardening.com

10 Ways to Make a Difference for Migrating Birds

October 17th, 2011

   

Birds of every kind – songbirds, raptors, and shorebirds – fly from their winter homes in the south to their summer breeding grounds in places as far north as the Arctic in the spring, and then back south in the fall. Along the way they encounter many perils including bright lights and tall buildings, cats and toxic lawns.

Fortunately, people can help ensure a safer journey for migrating birds. Backyards and parks, often key stopover points for many species, can become bird-friendly rest stops with a few simple steps. Audubon urges people to take the following actions:

1) Reduce or eliminate pesticide and herbicide use. Using fewer chemicals in your yard and home helps keep wildlife, pets and people healthy.

2) Plant native plants. Natives provide birds with food in the form of fruit and seeds, and are also home to tasty invertebrates like bugs and spiders.

3) Keep cats inside. Keeping cats indoors ensures that birds outdoors stay safe and cats benefit too; indoor cats live much longer than cats that go outside.

4) Prevent window collisions. Make sure birds can see (and avoid) your windows by putting up screens, closing drapes and blinds when you leave the house, or stick multiple decals on the glass (decals need to be spaced closely together to be effective – no more than two to four inches apart).

5) Provide cover in your backyard. Leave snags for nesting places and stack downed tree limbs to create a brush pile, which is a great source of cover for birds during bad weather.

6) Help birds stay on course. Close your blinds at night and turn off lights you aren’t using. Some birds use constellations to guide them on their annual migrations, and bright lights can disrupt them.

7) Create or protect water sources in your yard. Birds need water to drink and bathe in, just like we do. Be sure to change the water two to three times per week when mosquitoes are breeding.

8) Landscape for birds. Use lots of layers, including understory, ground cover, shrubs, and trees. Multiple levels of plants let birds use different layers for different purposes,

9) Extend a bird safety net beyond your backyard. Contact your local Audubon Chapter to learn about opportunities to create healthy habitat in parks, beaches and other places in your community.

10) Take the Audubon At Home Healthy Yard Pledge! When you take the Pledge, you commit to conserving water, planting native species, removing invasive plants, reducing pesticide use, protecting water quality, and keeping birds safe in your yard.

For more information visit AudubonAtHome.org

Plant Picks

September 23rd, 2011

Muhlenbergia capillaris, pink muhly grass

photo by gardenstudiodesign.com

Muhlenbergias create textural drama which, in some species, is enhanced by deeply colored flowers. Some make exceptional specimens, and all are great en masse in borders, meadows, and native gardens. Most species are native to Mexico, Asia, and the U.S.

In autumn, this unique specimen creates a spectacular, billowy inflorescence of massed, vibrant pink, airy flowers on 4-foot stems. It is noted for its tolerance to poorly drained soil. It is possibly hardy to Zone 6 with protection.

A native grass, Muhlenbergias thrive in full sun or partial shade in average, moist, but well-drained soil; however, most are tolerant of drought, heat, and poor soils.

photo by myfloridabackyard.blogspot.com

Height 3 ft. to 6 ft.
Spread 1 ft. to 3 ft.
Growth Habit Clumps
Growth Pace Moderate Grower
Light Full Sun to Part Shade
Moisture Adaptable
Maintenance Low
Tolerance Deer Tolerant; Drought Tolerant
Characteristics Native; Self Seeds; Showy Flowers; Showy Foliage; Showy Seed Heads
Bloom Time Fall
Flower Color Pink Flower; Purple/ Lavender Flower
Uses Beds and Borders, Container, Ground Covers, Cut Flower, Dried Flower, Naturalizing, Specimen Plant/ Focal Point, Suitable as Annual, Waterside
Style Cottage Garden, Meadow Garden
Seasonal Interest Winter Interest, Summer Interest, Fall Interest

photo by Vincent P. Lucas

Info from  FineGardening.com

Mosses

September 12th, 2011

Anyone who has happened upon a velveteened log in the woods or glimpsed emerald-draped statuary is likely to be seduced by moss’ color-saturated sumptuousness. But it is essential for those hoping to lay a carpet in their own backyards or coax the spread of an existing patch to understand the quirks of this ancient plant.

Like many 400-million-year-olds, moss is particular about its environment. Shade or semi-shade is usually a necessity. So are a consistent source of ambient moisture and vigilant maintenance to keep it free of weeds and debris (because mosses are nonvascular—no roots—they rely on their leaves for transportation of nutrients and moisture). Experts suggest setting down netting on top of moss in the fall and regularly emptying it of fallen leaves

Rock cap moss, Dicranum, will prosper in deep shade. Transplant it when leaves are already on the trees, as sun can quickly inflict harm. This plant will grow on top of rocks and boulders. Adopt it as a ground cover instead of grass for shady areas.

 Hair cap mossPolytrichum commune, prefers medium shade to partial sun, and sandy, acidic soils. If the soil is sufficiently moist, it can tolerate almost full sun. This variety can handle light foot traffic.

Cushion mossLeucobryum glaucum, favors shade but can tolerate partial sun. Grow it in sandy rather than dense soils. The plant grows in clumps and appears a light green with a silvery white cast.

Sheet moss,  Hypnum, one of the most common types of moss, thrives in deep shade and has a great transplant success rate. Its dense green mats can handle light foot traffic. Use it between stepping stones or, because of its low growth habit, as a ground cover to highlight other low-ranging plants.

Taken from Grow Your Own, Garden Design April 2011 by Deb Schwartz

visit: gardendesign.com

Bedell Cellars Winery

June 14th, 2011

 

The Hort recently hosted a private tour of the gardens and vineyards of Bedell Cellars, a 30 year old sustainably farmed and family owned estate vineyard and winery on the North Fork of Long Island. Originally a 50 acre potato farm in Cutchogue, Bedell has been owned since 2000 by  Michael Lynne, an esteemed art collector and film executive who produced The Lord of the Rings trilogy among many others, and is led by 30 year veteran Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich.

The tour, led by Trent Preszler, CEO of  Bedell Cellars, began in the renovated tasting room and wine cellar and continued to the Guest Cottage, which dates back to the late 1700′s. Its pergola-covered entrance path is lined with wisteria and and leads to a beautiful lavender and herb garden, all designed by landscape architect Edmund Hollander of Edmund Hollander Design.

After the tour we were treated to a wine tasting and lovely lunch on the deck of the tasting room, which overlooks the sweeping vineyards of the estate. Here our some photos of this wonderful day on the North Fork, make sure you don’t miss our next tour!

Photos by C. Briguglio

Visit bedell Cellars on line… http://www.bedellcellars.com/

Container Vegetable Gardens

May 27th, 2011

Many different kinds of vegetables will grow well in containers; generally more compact varieties are the best choice. Make sure the appropriate depth of soil is provided for each crop. Here are some successfully examples:

‘Tumbling Tom Red’

Tomatoes: ‘Hundreds and Thousands’, ‘Tumbler’, ‘Maskotka’,  ‘Red Robin’, ‘Tumbling Tom Red’, and ‘Tumbling Tom Yellow’

‘Orla’

Potatoes:                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                earlies: ‘Accent’, ‘Duke of York’, ‘Orla’, ‘Mimi’, and ‘Pentland Javelin’

salad types: ‘Aura’, ‘Anya’, ‘Charlotte’, ‘Harlequin’, and ‘Roseval’


‘Salad Bowl’

Lettuce: ‘Little Gem’, ‘Pandero’, and ‘Salad Bowl’

Mustard ‘Giant Red’

Baby Greens: Beet ‘Bulls Blood’, mustard ‘Giant Red’, arugula ‘Runaway’, and basil ‘Aristotle’

Eggplant: ‘Ophelia’ and ‘Pinstripe’

‘Apache’

Chili pepper: ‘Prairie Fire’, ‘Apache’, and ‘Numex Twilight’

Pepper: ‘Redskin’, and ‘Mohawk’

‘Hestia’

Runner bean: ‘Hestia’

Carrot: ‘Parmex’, ‘Adelaide’, and ‘Baladis’

‘French Breakfast 3′

Radish: ‘French Breakfast 3′ and ‘Sparkler’

Check out Thompson & Morgan for seeds and plants   http://bit.ly/jPUYm6